Thursday, November 1, 2012

A trip to the grocery store


Growing up, going to the grocery store with my mom was one of the thing I looked forward to the most. I loved helping her push the cart, helping her find items on the shelves, and trying to convince her to buy nutty-buddies or the candy by the check-out line. I especially loved going to the Fresh Market with her on Saturdays, after an early-morning trip to the Farmer's market. The smell, the music, the little cups of coffee to sample and the fact that the man at the bakery always gave me a free cookie... just a few of the reasons that I would magically find myself at the Fresh Market last year when I was too stressed to do anything but work and peruse the aisles of over-priced delicacies only found at the Fresh Market. 

Going to the supermarket in Bungoma is a much different experience. 

 To give some background, Aurelien is doing part-time consulting work for a research NGO based in the US is now working full-time for another NGO in Bungoma. I work for a US-based research NGO. We are by no means making six figures, but are still doing well by Kenyan standards, probably because the average Kenyan makes about 6000 KSH (60-70$) a month. We pay more than that for rent every month (paying 75 dollar a month for rent and 5 dollars a month for utilities is something I could get used to) and about that much for food each week. {Side note: It still causes a bit of a shock to have bill from lunch that’s 50ksh (50 cents). Then I look around and realized that a lot of people in Bungoma couldn’t afford to spend 50 cents on lunch every day. This type of paradox happens all the time here}.

When we go to the grocery store, and walk through the aisles filling up our cart with what we would consider relatively basic food, we look around and see that everyone around us is buying mainly flour, salt and cooking oil. We purchase the expensive items (imports) or non-necessities like yogurt and nuts and whatever else we think we’ll eat for the week. When we spent 6000 KSH, we’re spending what a lot of people in Kenya make in a month. Can you imagine if you were in the US and someone spent YOUR monthly salary on food in the check-out line of a grocery store? The huge disparity in wealth is something that’s really difficult to live in/reconcile with. At the same time, I don’t stop going to the store and buying peanut butter and regular butter and whatever else I want to eat for the week because I feel guilty about the price on the receipt. I don’t lower my spending because I’m surrounded by people who live so modestly. This makes me feel guilty or spoiled.

The problem with this, or the truth that makes me feel even guiltier, is that I don’t let this guilt affect my habits. I really miss things like thai food, lattes, and TJ Maxx. I’ve already thought of where I want to go shopping, what I want to buy, and what meals I want to have when I get back to the US in a month and a half for Christmas. I feel guilty that I want “things” and $15 meals, and yet I don’t change and just stop wanting them because I feel guilty and know that they’re unnecessary and that others around me have so much less than me. When I went to the field for my job and saw a girl who’d been bitten by a black mamba, a baby that was 9 months old and the size of a 4-month old, and a woman with a breathing problem that looked like she wouldn’t make it to the clinic in time to survive, all in one day, I vowed that I should try to change and not want those expensive things, that I should live simply and give generously, but the short answer is that I can’t do it. I’ve prayed about it, I’ve hoped about it, I’ve had conversations with people I look up to about it, and I can’t change.

Why are we so materialistic? How can someone who is bothered and saddened by the disparities in income still want over-priced coffee? My friend from work who wrote another blog post about this type of thing said that her take-away is that we need to be grateful for what we have and live as generously as possible. I really agree with that. I don’t think I squealed as loudly when I saw that baby elephant as I did a few weeks ago when Aurelien and I discovered the next-best thing to a Frappuccino in Kisumu. I feel much more grateful for what I have since coming here but know I have a long way to go. Aurelien and I spend hours cooking to get a decent meal and when we take the first bite, we feel so thankful for it. But gosh do I have a long way to go. And can we be grateful while still wanting more or am I justifying myself by thinking that I’m being more grateful when in fact I just need to stop wanting? Generosity is something I think is more difficult. But even if I can become more generous, does that justify me still wanting more? Can you be generous and still give to yourself or are we just lying to ourselves by thinking that we’re generous when in fact if we’re generous, we will give everything we have? Similar to the biblical story of the woman who had nothing and gave her only penny, as compared to the rich men who gave the equivalent of a few dollars but kept so much.

I’ve always thought that the richness/poverty in the world was a big balancing act, and that in order for the poor to get richer, the rich have to get poorer. If this is the case, my wanting more is in direct conflict with my sympathy for/desire to help those who have less.

Will I still be excited to go to the Fresh Market when I get back to the US and spend 50 cents on almond pillow cookies? Probably! 

Thoughts? I certainly don’t have all the answers and would appreciate some perspective.

No grand conclusion here, just wanted to put some thoughts out there for whoever (our parents) will read this post.


Love,

Hannah
                     

Summer Vacation... is it really November already?


** This blog post was written about a month ago**

We're back! Sorry (moms) for the delay in posting!

Since our last (first) post, Aurelien and I have taken some incredible trips and have had a roller-coaster of a past 2-3 months.

Our series of fun trips started when we went to the Kakamega rain forest with our dear friend Ruth and our puppy at the time, Oliver. This was quite the trip and honestly could compete with the likes of the maasai mara and mombasa. It smelt/felt like the rain forest section of the zoo with all the wild birds and plants. We took a 4-hour hike and saw monkeys, a water fall, and some other beautiful wildlife. It’s hard to believe the rain forest is only about an hour away from where we live. Aurelien and I resolved to go there more often and haven’t been there since (haa) but I’m sure we’ll be back soon.



About two months ago, we went to the Maasai Mara with a group of friends from the organization I work for and another awesome NGO in the area. We saw the wildebeest migration, a lion family, several elephant families, a baby and mama giraffe, zebras, all kinds of deer-like creatures (not quite as cool as seeing the lions and baby elephants) and..... a LEOPARD!! All of the animals look unreal being out there together in the grass in their natural habitat. It's so bizarre to see giraffes and elephants in the same area.... The only time when we saw a lion with another species the lion was on the hunt. Even though the trip to the Mara consisted of hours upon hours in a moving, bumpy vehicle, it was relaxing and soothing to look out on the plains which appeared like a sea of grass, bushes and trees. Aurelien and I could only go for the weekend (because I couldnt get off of work) and so we drove 7 hours to the park on Saturday morning, drove through the park for the rest of the day Saturday (and saw the wildebeest migration!! thousands upon thousands of wildebeests!), and then found our camp just as the sun was setting. The group we went with bought groceries for the weekend on the way in and we were expecting to reach a camp with a refrigerator, or at least something resembling a kitchen, where the hired cook was going to prepare our food. In reality, there was nothing - just a few canvas tents, a place for a fire and a covered area for cooking/eating. We somehow had an incredible night's sleep and the next day we woke up early in hopes of seeing a lion hunt/kill it's breakfast. We saw 2 gorgeous, huge male lions, but no breakfast! We drove around the park until about 1pm and then went back to the camp and hopped in  another car to take us to the nearest town (5 hours away) where we got on a matatu and headed back for Bungoma. It was a very long weekend but was a wonderful experience.



About a month and a half ago, we went to Mombasa with several of the same people from the Mara trip (basically all the other 'mzungu' that live in Bungoma). This trip was A.M.A.Z.I.N.G. The beach is my favorite place to be and the beach in Mombasa looks like something out of a travel magazine. The sand is so white, fine and soft and the water is crystal clear. On this trip, Aurelien and I spent the first day at a cozy bed & breakfast on the beach called Kennaways, where I mostly just slept on the beach and Aurelien mostly just took black-mail worthy pictures of my sleeping on the beach (not creepy at all). For dinner, we went to this place called Ali Barbour's Coral Cave, which is a restaurant that is literally inside of an old coral cave. The cave is estimated to be 140,000 – 160,000 years old. The atmosphere was amazing and the food tasted heavenly, especially after a couple months of Bungoma food and my crappy cooking. The next day, our friend Ruth joined us and we all rode CAMELS on the beach. It felt like a dream. Those babies were CUTE with long eye-lashes and knobby knees! That night, we all went to a restaurant called Sails where we got even better food. I don't know if it's that the best food in Bungoma tastes worse than the worse food in Chapel Hill, or if the food in Mombasa is just really that good. Probably a combination! The next day, we left Diani beach and went to Tiwi beach where we met our friends at a private house with a live-in housekeeper and chef. We had local fishermen coming up to our door to sell us anything from calamari to lobster! It was amazing. The house was very open and quiet and it was in Tiwi beach (home of the Diani coral reef) where Aurelien discovered his love of snorkeling. The kid would not get out of the water! I just laid on the beach and every now and then would look out for him. Inevitably there would be a few long seconds before his head would pop out of the water and I would give a sigh of relief. Even though the beach is my favorite place in the world, I'm deathly afraid of the ocean. After spending about an hour in the water, he would run up to me on the beach, snorkel/mask still on the face, with his hands and pockets loaded with sea shells. He would beg and plead for me to come in the water, telling me he saw the whole cast of “Finding Nemo”, along with beautiful sea shells and starfish until anything he’d ever imagined. Eventually I caved and got in the water with him, only because he promised we could have Chinese food for dinner if I tried snorkeling. I spent the entire 10 minutes I was in the water breathing fast and picturing a great white suddenly appearing in my view. I can’t explain how scary it was. Aurelien held up his side of the promise and we had (not so delicious) Chinese food for dinner. The next day, the whole group took a (hand-carved mango tree) sail/row boat out to a coral reef. This was by-far one of the sketchiest experience of my life. Everyone in the group dove down and snorkeled and found beautiful fish, starfish and shells. Aurelien even found a clam that he swears could have eaten one of his extremities. Needless to say I stayed on the boat the whole time, filling up cups/buckets of water from inside the boat to make sure we didn’t capsize. The current was really strong in the water and there would have been no way to “save” anyone had they not been able to swim back to the boat. It was a nightmare to me. We all made it safely back to land and I vowed never to get on such a crappy boat like that, far out in the Indian Ocean, again. The next morning we watched the beautiful sunrise above the Indian Ocean, and Aurelien and I left the rest of the group to explore Old Town Mombasa. We were there on a Sunday during Ramadhan and so a lot of the shops and restaurants were closed. We just walked through narrow streets and looked at all the wood-carved doors and historical sites. Mombasa was the only trading port in East Africa for 1000s of years and so there is just tons of neat history to the city. After walking around for a long time, we found a 3d movie theatre and watched Ice Age for 300ksh (3 dollars) each, and ate our fill of gelato, popcorn, hot dogs fries and soda, freezing in the air conditioning that we’ve pretty much forgotten existed. It was an amazing trip.

Then, about a month ago, we went to Nairobi. What a culture shock coming from Bungoma. I’ll keep it short because there’s not much to say about Nairobi, except that we ate incredible food, walked around western-standard shopping malls, and got licked by giraffes. We’re planning to go back soon. It’s crazy to think that Nairobi can exist within just 6-7 hours of a place like Bungoma.

Last weekend, we went to a place called Kweisos house with a bunch of friends, most of whom work for the same organization as me. The drive to the house took ~6 hours because we got a flat tire on the way there, and then the spare got a flat, and we were too far from anywhere close to civilization to find another spare or tire. When we finally arrived we were greeted by amazing friends, delicious dinner, and strong cocktails.  In the morning we could finally see where we were at this house and can say that we were surrounded by the most beautiful view of rolling hills, flowers and serene nothing-ness. It was so beautiful there. We spent Saturday lounging around the house and pool, riding horses, holding baby lambs (okay, just 2), milking cows (okay, just 1), and eating delicious food. On Sunday we did the same and then left Kweisos to get back to Bungoma, but not without getting one more flat tire.

We feel so lucky to have taken several great trips in just a couple of months. We’re vowing to do more travelling whenever we get back to the US because taking weekends off makes the work week more do-able, even here where work is so difficult for so many reasons. But I’ll save that for another blog post!

Happy November J

Aurelien & Hannah

Saturday, July 14, 2012

Love in the time of cholera

Love in the time of diarrhea >> Aurelien's idea for our blog name. Funny enough, we are living in a place rife with cholera, typhoid, and diarrhea. This blog is meant to be about the adventures that we, A&H, have together. Make no mistake, calling our day-to-day life an adventure is a bit of an exaggeration! But, we hope that you, our family and close friends, can read this as a way to know what we're up to when we're far away. We enjoy reading your blogs and hope you'll enjoy reading ours! 

Aurelien and I are getting settled in our new home in Bungoma, Western Province, Kenya. We are working together for an NGO here. We've both been to east Africa before but living here and knowing we're staying is a new experience! This is something we've dreamed of, and talked about, since before we started dating. It's very fulfilling to know that we're living our dreams by being here, together.

The run-down on Bungoma: Less than 100,000 people live in Bungoma and it's surrounding areas. There is one main road in Bungoma where most of the shops, markets, restaurants, etc. are located. Bungoma is bustling - there are so many people working, walking, living, buying, selling, etc. in Bungoma. Many-a-truck and matutu pass through Bungoma and it's sister city, Mumias (home of a giant sugar factory and accompanying sugar factory village), on the way into, or out of, Uganda. This is because there is one main road to Busia, Uganda from other parts of Western Kenya and the turn-off to Bungoma is on this road. Bungoma is also slightly on the dusty side. The rainy season has just ended here and water supplies are intermittent. On the positive side, less rain (and water) means more frequent electricity - which is definitely helpful considering the sun sets around 7pm every night, all year. It's safe to say that Bungoma doesn't attract tourists - there are no historical sites, famous landscapes or safari animals - at least none that haven't been poached or eaten in the last 30 years. However, Bungoma is a spirited place and has so much to offer. Aurelien and I joke that most days we forget we're living in Kenya (or not in the US for that matter). Almost anything you could possibly need is available, save Jelly Belly Jelly beans, J.Crew, and other non-essential but enjoyable luxuries.

The things we love most about Bungoma (in no particular order):
- the trees that bend over the road, creating a canopy, on the way to our office
- charming bicycle taxis that can take us anywhere in town for approximately 20 cents.
- Sarasa, a strange fairly-land type place we recently discovered that has a bouncy castle, trampoline, pool, cabanas, AMAZING food that tastes like nothing we'd ever tried before, and Pimms (for $3 Junebugs, of course!)
- Our puppy, Oliver, who we can take on walks/runs without a leash and he stays (mostly) by our side
- Roasted corn and avocados and mangos galore, for about 10-20 cents each
- The nicest people who greet perfect strangers and ask if we can give them our dog
- The most incredible co-workers who are dedicated to the project and infinitely cheerful
- Airtel: our phone network that allows us to call home for 3 cents per minute
- The lack of decent food which is making us sharpen our cooking skills. We will be expert chefs by June 2013.
- eachother! :)
- eachother, again
- the most precious Kenyan babies/kids who live in the same compound as us
- mosquito nets
- Stoney. The best ginger beer in the world. 40 cents a bottle.
- realizing that we're accomplishing our dreams
- talking about our next dreams

Bungoma is our current adventure. It is so wonderful being able to experience this together. Aurelien and I are so similar in some ways and really different in others
Picture: I'm typing while Aurelien is sitting beside me, holding my glass of wine and his beer and throwing out ideas (read: lame jokes) that sometimes (read: never) make it into the blog. HA. This one is the exception.

Photos to come soon,

Au revoir!

A&H